The Changthang plateau —
nomads, lakes, and high passes
This is one of the most demanding and rewarding treks in Ladakh. The route crosses the Changthang plateau — a vast high-altitude wilderness above 4,500m, home to the Changpa nomads and their pashmina goats, yaks, kiang (wild asses), migratory cranes, and marmots. You pass two extraordinary high-altitude lakes — Tso Kar and Tso Moriri — crossing seven passes above 5,000m over 98 km. The trek ends at Korzok on the shore of Tso Moriri, one of the most remote and beautiful lakes in India.
The trek begins at Rumtse village on the Manali-Leh highway. Follow the old salt road through a landscape that feels completely different from the rest of Ladakh — wide open, high, and austere. The Changthang plateau begins here. Camp at Kyamar.
A big day. Climb to Kyamar La with sweeping views of the Changthang region, then cross Mandalchan La before descending to Tisaling. The vastness of the plateau becomes clear from the top of these passes. Camp at Tisaling.
Cross Shibuk La and get your first view of Tso Kar — the white lake, named for the salt deposits on its shores. The plateau teems with wildlife: migratory birds, kiang (Tibetan wild asses), marmots, and ibex. Camp at Ponganagu on the edge of the Tso Kar basin.
Walk along the western shore of Tso Kar — one of the longest days in terms of distance. The lake reflects the sky and the surrounding mountains in extraordinary colours. Black-necked cranes and brahmini ducks nest here. Camp at Nuruchan.
The hardest day of the trek. Cross two consecutive passes and cover the longest distance of the route. On the way, encounter Changpa nomad families with their herds of yaks, sheep, and pashmina goats — the source of the finest cashmere wool in the world. Camp at Gyamar Barma.
A shorter recovery day. Cross Kartse La and descend into the Gyamar valley at the foot of Yalung Nong. The slower pace gives time to absorb the vastness of the plateau and the silence that defines this part of Ladakh. Camp at Gyamar.
The final trekking day. Cross Yalung Nyau La — the highest pass of the entire trek at 5,435m — and from the top, Tso Moriri appears below: a deep blue lake at 4,522m, one of the most beautiful and remote in India. Descend to Korzok village on the northern shore. Trek ends here. Overnight Korzok.
Morning at Tso Moriri — walk along the shoreline before the drive back to Leh. The road passes through Mahe Bridge and Chumathang hot springs. Arrive Leh by evening. Trip ends.